Singapore

2010-03-28T15:13:00.000-07:00

Singapore compared to Belize

Reflections on Singapore from Belize—one year later.

It is serendipity to be in Belize one year after visiting Singapore to explore how a country and people choose to address the decisions balancing environmental concerns and economic goals. In the interim, one seeming example of a success story, Iceland, has imploded with the economic crisis during the last year. I remember my overall assessment of what I observed in Singapore. Although I would make preservation of natural resources (including wildlife, reefs, and the small remaining undeveloped areas) a priority, I came to understand that the people of Singapore should and would make these decisions based on their goals. The economic goals had been forefront but emerging interest in the environment was building—I hope it is in time to preserve some fascinating remaining areas.

Belize is also a recently (1981) independent country of small size and struggling in a difficult transition of determining their own fate. Like Singapore, Belize is highly literate (92-94% I was told), is dominated by a water setting, but has some potential natural resources. Thus far, the people of Belize have chosen to protect 60% of their country from development and are attempting to use the abundant beauty, wildlife, Mayan history, and reefs to attract tourists. Tourism is currently their primary industry and the people we met over the week seemed happy to live more simply (but comfortably) but preserving their heritage, history and surroundings. Belize pays a price of pinched finances (very different from the financial strength of Singapore), marginal infrastructure, and a lower standard of living.

I enjoyed meeting intelligent, multilingual and hardworking people in each country. Children were clean and happy as they passed by in their school uniforms in both countries. Again, I understand that the people of Belize should and will make decisions about their future and that of their natural environment. The impact of dense population in Singapore and contrasted smaller population in Belize certainly clarifies that limitations on decision making are impacted by forces of population density as much as any factor.

I recall the thought conveyed several times in Singapore. A people can not invest very much into environmental advocacy until after they have provided securely for food, shelter, and the well-being of children and family. Singapore and Belize struggling with these issues can teach us something about the barriers to worldwide issues of climate change and environmental degradation. I suspect most emerging nations are in similar struggles and the developed world (not doing an acceptable job ourselves) can not fairly be critical of our world partners.

C.S. Lewis wrote “Let’s pray that the human race never escapes earth to spread its iniquity elsewhere.”

Shorebirds-Water birds

Just as expected, in contrast to Singapore with “no shore left”, Belize was abundant with bird life on the shore and in the rain forest.
It is an inborn joy to awaken to the varied songs of birds greeting daylight. The absence of un-natural noise (traffic, machinery, neighborhood life noises) drowning out these songs was noteworthy. During the day a variety of birds were visible at each compass point. Frigate birds and Pelicans flew overhead, colorful songbirds were in the bushes, long tailed crackles were on the roof-tops, and along the shore paraded many familiar feathered friends also south for the winter.
(Cormorants, gulls, little blue heron, sander lings, ruddy turnstones, terns, Wilson’s plovers, black rail, osprey like seabird and more)

Up the New River and into the rainforest, we headed for the Mayan ruins at Lamanai. On the way we saw Mangrove swallows, white ibis, great heron. Great blue heron, ringed kingfisher, kites, night hawks, yellow flycatcher, Jacana, river hawk, egrets, red breasted swallow, parakeets, anhinga (also wild boar, howler monkeys, iguana) and big billed macaw.

2010-03-28T14:54:00.001-07:00

Birds in Belize--2009

Reflections from Home

2008-04-14T14:07:00.001-07:00

As I arrived in Singapore, I was wondering what starting mindset participants would/should bring along. Were we there to see what was wrong and how American perspective and ideas could help Singapore or was Singapore a shining example of innovation that had lessons to teach that we should take home and utilize. Of course, Dr. Rittshof said we had no starting mindset—the trip was experiential. (He knew the answer we brought home was a mixture of the two opposite poles). It became clear to me before I left that the people of Singapore should decide their own goals by their own priorities. Additionally, even without outside permission, they Would decide their own path. Recognizing the positive qualities of Singapore’s citizens—education, work ethic, tolerance for difference in religion and cultural backgrounds, desires for sustainability and self-sufficiency, emerging interest in nature and natural resources, and the simple but profound statement by a representative citizen my first day (“We just live together”)—I believe they are sufficient for the task of deciding their own fate.
Starting with my own perspectives of concern for nature and natural resources and frustration with lack of /insufficient action on global warming issues in my homeland, I want to disagree with the possible destruction of their remaining niches of nature. However, I am heartened by the common citizen’s knowledge and interest in environmental issues.
I am hopeful the new wave of growing interest in the environment will save these niches for future Singaporeans. It is clear that Singapore can preserve nature spots like Sungei Buloh and the Botanical Gardens in ways the US should emulate. It is striking to see the success on Semakau of mangrove restoration and a thriving mudflat teeming with life. Hopefully, areas such as Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Mandai mangroves, and the remaining coral reefs can be preserved in such an exemplary way for the growing population of citizens who will seek out nature in the future.
I left Singapore with admiration of the people I met and wish them success with this effort to preserve Singapore’s nature.
(did miss seeing the shorebirds that would have lived in Singapore if habitat had been less disrupted –no shores for the shorebirds)

Flight out of Changi Airport--a new friend

2008-04-14T13:33:00.000-07:00

Boarding the plane at Changi Airport to start home, I thought my Singapore experience was completed but was pleasantly surprised to sit alongside a new friend, Lawrence, who helped me put my experience into summary/into perspective as we flew toward Tokyo. Lawrence epitomized the positive tone I met in Singapore—intelligent, thoughtful, well educated, interesting and enjoyable. Describing himself a member of a “new age” group of thought, he embodied many similarities to the other exceptional people I had met in Singapore. He clearly was proud of his country and its accomplishments—even willingly supporting many current specific initiatives (water, recycling, growth)—but all pointing to the same goal of self-sufficiency and sustainability in an island nation with no natural resources except geography and the resourcefulness of its people. However, the “new age” component seemed to reflect a balance in accepting many positive government and societal goals but at the same time being willing to think for ones self—not always agreeing. His perspective rejected the culture of a “herd mentality”—going along non-questioning regarding everything the P.A.P./government proposed—but instead seeing the need to be “self thinking”.
For instance, Lawrence acknowledged the goal of having citizens work extended careers—to and beyond 70—to support government economic goals but his personal goal was to retire at 55—having worked regular 9 hour days or more for 5 and a half days per week with additional non-routine work time. He acknowledged his desire to have a time for himself—“what would I be working for?” if able to retire and enjoy life and time more on his schedule.
The goal of 6 and a half million citizens was mentioned and I had heard that Lee Kwon Yew may have stated that his earlier goal should be lowered. Lawrence felt the number should be higher than 6 and ½ million—maybe 7 and ½. Self thinking didn’t mean like minded with me but certainly a thought out statement.
Lawrence pointed out a recurrent theme once again—that individuals and government could now turn attention to the environment and nature as issues of survival, sustenance, and self-sufficiency were being/had been achieved. He voiced looking forward to having a time and health that would allow him to enjoy nature—i.e. when he reached retirement or a less hectic schedule. I see little nature left in Singapore and less may be there when Lawrence is ready to retire. He had an interesting viewpoint on this as well—since nature must be sacrificed in Singapore to meet the goals of the people, Singapore could find and protect some other area of coral reef or nature in return for what had to be sacrifice—even if out of the country. Lawrence was openly environmentally and socially conscious in his spirit and clearly willing to be inventive. He felt business has a responsibility to care for the environment and for its employees. He was strongly against companies that have highly paid CEOs receiving outrageous buy-outs—saying he refuses to invest in US companies for this reason.
He did say that one negative of life in Singapore is the decreased ability to speak out freely and to be heard. We discussed many areas of life—healthcare, retirement, development and more. Lawrence leaves me wishing our US population were more like him—educated, thoughtful, broad in perspective. I remember reading Thomas Jefferson’s statement that the greatest safeguard of our society and government is an educated citizenry.
The six hours to Tokyo went more quickly than expected—and pleasantly as well.

Last Day--Botanical Gardens & U.S. Embassy

2008-04-04T15:46:00.000-07:00

We Closed out our adventures with a trip to the botanical gardens where we saw a patch of rainforest-likehabitat that is the only rainforest most Singaporeans ever experience. The trees ore representativebut the atmosphere, dripping humidity and diversity of plants and animals is far from the real rainforest we experienced (and we saw the area dedicated to recreation and not the wild, more untouched area of rainforest in Malaysia).

The botanical gardens are apparently present in all the areas of British colonization--one of the first amenities they established and now a legacy they have left behind. The Singapore Bot. Gardens are beautiful and pleasant. Some wildlife freely resides in the large open space--as seen above.

After the gardens , we visited the US Embassy where we received a briefing from Ms. Elizabeth Crosson and Mr. Paul Horowitz presenting the official US view of Singapore--a strong and significant partner with the US. They presented Sg as consistently looking for sustainability and self-sufficiency (which we have observed thru our trip). U. S. investment in Singapore is 60.4 billion compared to 22.2 in China and 91.8 in Japan. Ten million tourists visit yearly staying an average of 2-3 days. When asked what one thing of Singapore he'd want to take home to America, Mr. Horowitz said the running comment/joke is that "we wish we could take the P.A.P. (governing political party in Sg) to Washington"--meaning a non-corrupt group of educated leaders with a long view of needs who take action and get things done. (my interpretation).

Free Day--day off

2008-03-30T15:42:00.000-07:00

I used our free day to relax a little longer and listened to the NCAA basketball play-offs on the internet—the local internet speed was too slow to watch the video. Then off to shop and ramble. The bus and subway (MRT) systems make it easy to get around the city and even the countryside—a taxi can be used when in a rush. My favorite places to go are Little India and Chinatown. In each setting, I found Indian temples in the midst of the districts. Historically, when the British brought in workers from India to join workers brought in from China, they all lived initially in the same area of Singapore (probably intentionally clustered to allow better surveillance and control by the British). Later, the Indian population settled another area of their own—hence active Indian temples in both settings. One of the photos shows the contrast of old—older cultural/religious heritage against a backdrop of moderninity and secular development.
Singapore holds a wide range of religious heritage and active practice. That reflects centuries of melting together of many cultures. There are frequently encountered places of worship scattered thru the city including on area of worship and prayer alongside our local bus stop. Here people of Buddhist faith burned money—“Hell notes” that were sent by burning to ancestors for use in the afterlife. There are many Christian churches reflecting strong missionary presences thru past centuries.
I searched for items to bring home to family—Singapore has everything you could want to buy and probably always cheaper. I find it hard to find items that reflect the region without being touristy—because Singapore’s identity is really a mixed identity of cultures. The citizens seem proud to be Singaporeans but there is no craft or item that reflects Sg that doesn’t more strongly reflect some subculture of Singapore.
I found the equivalent of a “flea mall” or grouped individual salesmen at tables set up within a mall. The items were enticing just like a visit to such a sale back home. I limited myself to the purchase for Dr. Dan of what the salesman said was a “new species” and included a rubber rat stuffed into a tortoise shell as a jest. I thought that Dr. Rittshof deserved the right to discover a new species and become famous. (The shell was held in the cupped hands while praying in the Chinese faith—coins were rattled inside during the prayer and then tossed to the floor where they were “read” to foretell your future.
A dinner in an upscale Chinese restaurant closed the evening and early to bed.

Trip to Malaysian Rainforest

2008-03-29T07:34:00.000-07:00

Yasmin and water snake

Prof. Dan lets a leech hang out for a photo--he thinks they are the neatest creature in the rainforest--the rest of us were less joyful to meet them. In reality, they itch/sting like a local mosquitoe.

Dan and Gary chat at a rest stop.

Days eleven to thirteen—off to the Malaysian rainforest at Endau-Rompin Selai named for the indigenous village near its entrance. To get there was an adventure in itself. The train station, trains and tracks are still owned by Malaysia though surrounded by Singapore. We arrived at a station that showed its age but was decorated with cultural murals. Some Singaporeans feel it would be nicer if controlled by Sg. We went through customs/immigration sensing heightened alert by officials as they search for an escaped terrorist—his picture is in every window—on every wall. Then we commenced our early am train ride thru Johor (a modern looking city/Muslim culture) and into countryside of thick vegetation although much of it obviously has had native forest replaced by widely present palms for palm oil. We were met at the station by Gary and his crew of guides and went for an adventurous, muddy ride to reach base camp. At one stop, Gary introduced us to Guava fruit—native here—and I prefer it to apples. Later, when we had to stop for roadwork, Gary got coconuts and opened them with machete for a refreshing drink for all.
(Incidentally, since I’ve been watching for shorebirds, I saw a white egret in the river near Mandai mangroves as we neared the border and a great heron in the same area on return—some of the sparse shorebirds seen here).
At the base camp there were cottages with elevated sleeping platforms, rough toilets, and wonderful local cooking by a local family. Malaysian culture includes six meals a day-breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon teas, supper and midnight snack—they all seemed like full meals (I started skipping some). The park ranger met to tell us the history of the park which still holds rhinoceros, elephant and many large animals. Two areas are set aside for recreation—we were in one----but all the rest/ 80% is off limits except to research and occasional poachers. They are very protective of preserving this habitat. In this area of parkland, indigenous people, the Orangasee, are often used for guides. They are a gentle, peaceful, likeable group who still lives much or solely from the land—the rainforest—harvesting rattan, hunting for meat, guiding, etc.
Our exposure to this environment includes a walk to the falls (I was the only one to fall into the river at a washed out bridge—it cooled me down—always the klutz). Two night walks netted us looks at two flying lemurs, deer, a civet fighting a water snake (the snake seen above in hands of Yasmin), frogs of many types, black scorpion, firefly larvae looking like dark brown millipede with glowing tails, small fish and freshwater eel.
I won the prize for getting the most leeches—over twenty on my first walk of 35 minutes (photo of one above on Dr. Dan’s finger). They respond to your approach—human, elephant, whatever by moving rapidly with inch-worm motion almost jumping to meat your shoes on the trail—standing erect to make contact, then climbing to a good spot over a vein, boring in and going to town. I was bleeding this afternoon again from a bite 24 hours ago—they possess a strong anticoagulant. They start the size of a large pencil lead and gorge themselves to the size of a medium earthworm. The discomfort is about like a Cedar Island mosquito and less than one of our local marsh flies. I was looking at the bruises all over my feet and ankles at the bus stop tonight when Dr. Dan and I realized it was the same bus stop at which he first informed me there would be leeches in my future. We had a chuckle.
This experience was quite a striking contrast to urban Singapore—but not that long ago, much of Singapore held this same biodiversity that is now gone and Malaysia is trying to preserve. This side trip gives me a sense of what a rapid and widespread loss of nature has occurred as result of the developmental path /Singapore has previously chosen—tho now apparently re-examining.
I asked Gary who has worked for 15 years in this field of guiding or environmental field work—and in these geographic areas-the same question I have asked others—which group of animals, plants insects, etc. is showing he earliest signs of impact from environmental degradation. He believes the large mammals are hit the worst in the rainforest and next the reptiles—based on hi experience and observations.
We were able to see the wide biodiversity among trees and rainforest plants especially and at night got s taste of mammals, reptiles and amphibians that stay well hidden during the day.
Three events I do not want to forget: when we arrived we were greeted by the sounds of cicada so loud it could seriously mistaken for the jet engine sound of a plane taxi-ing down the runway//second, the afternoon rain, thunder, downpour so strong it brought limbs down off trees including the one over our roof, and third, the sound of the gibbons playing out of sight in the treetops as we were preparing to leave, One more thing, the shy and soft song sang for us as a gift by our Orangasee guide the night before we left. \
Now back in Singapore, I appreciate clothes that are dry or can dry out at all, the soft mattress, the A/C, and walking on flat level ground. And it was tough trying to keep up with young folk 1/3 my age.

For park info: http://johorparks.com/

Semankau day10

2008-03-26T15:18:00.000-07:00

Second trip to Semankau—this time we went to Senakau at daybreak and low/incoming tide along with the Commonwealth Group (representatives from Asian commonwealth countries in Sg studying environmental issues. Additionally, we were joined by the Naked Crabs, a friendly and efficient volunteer group committed to study and preservation of coastal nature areas and focused also on teaching/guiding.

After a mudflat walk, we went to the end of the island for a look and back to the processing plant where they offload incinerated waste—2 million tons per day/down from 7. This their only landfill will last till 2030 at which time the country is committed to zero waste—zero landfill—thru reuse/recycling/and reduced consumption.

I did see a collared kingfisher, a flock of heron (locally/in Beaufort-- they seem solitary), an egret and a peurple ?heron. I saw a couple types of brown forest birds. The island is clean, green and has wonderful mudflats and mangroves. There is interest in replacing and refurbishing local destroyed reefs just now gaining steam.

Back to Sg for a dinner at little India after peicking up train tickets for Malaysia. No internet in the rainforest so future blogs will be delayed 2 and half days—slow internet in our inn prevents attachments till then –away in 5 minutes.

St. Joh's Island --day9

2008-03-26T14:37:00.000-07:00

St. John’ Island is south of Singapore city proper and houses the Tropical Marine Sciences Institute and AVA which is an aquaculture/fishery enterprise, but the island has also has had its prior holdin facilities upgraded to be used as a holding area for potential terrorists, etc.—previously lepers. We walked thru fences topped with barbed wire to reach TMSI. TMSI does research on a variety of marine issues (such as Dr. Rittshof’s project on anti-fouling sgents) , restoration of marine habitats, environmental monitoring, and regionally specific research.

The government aquaculture enterprise studies efficient production of fish for the people of Sg==currently producing 3-5% of the needs of the growing population that utilizes fish as a main food source. They also monitor food safety and other issues. We toured the facility but no photos were allowed. We saw production of algae and rotifes as food sources and growth of fish from specks to grouper the size half as big as I am. The also grow Pompano and /snakehead—commonly consumed fish.

I did see two shorebirds—nidentified—fly to the rock jetty and a raptor flew overhead twice. I did see a common myna (not so common now that it is replaced by the Javanese myna in many city habitats—it parallels our sparrows.

Day 8 at Sungei Buloh

2008-03-24T14:38:00.000-07:00

On day eight our group visited Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve. The last seven days have repeatedly raised the question of to what limit Singapore will try to preserve the few remaining natural areas—forest habitat, coral reefs, mangroves, wetlands and shoreline. Sungei Buloh is an outstanding example of how well Singapore can do such preservation in a balance that gives visitors an enjoyable, peaceful setting to observe wildlife and nature and at the same time minimizes intrusion by visitors into wildlife space. Additionally, this area probably serves as a nursery site that nurtures wildlife for much of Singapore.

We spent more than three hours on our ramble and saw marsh hens, monitor lizards, whimbrel, heron, egrets, shorebirds (thought to be redshank and plovers), collared kingfisher, mudskippers, small snakes, squirrel, lots of butterflies and more—the monkeys stay hidden. There were towers allowing an overview of the reserve and also Jahor across the river. The soft sound of singing of morning prayers came across the river. In the mangroves, we saw tree-climbing crabs, mudskippers, lobster mounds, and monitor lizard. It was striking to Dr. Dan that a profusion of shelled life was evident here that we have not seen elsewhere—Semakau was close—and he felt this might reflect the status of health resulting from protection from human harvesting.

Our trip to Night Safari was rained out for now. Our visit to Parliament ws cancelled since they were out for holiday. It didn’t hurt to have a little rest.

Shorebirds and the Environment--Midway Point

2008-03-23T18:02:00.000-07:00

At my suggestion, Dr. Dan took me to Little India for dinner. I was unprepared for but excited to see the phenomenon that greeted us. The streets were teeming with a mass of humanity—it was Sunday, a laborer’s day off—and there was a homogenous shoulder to shoulder mass of male Indians filling the sidewalks and flowing to fill one lane of the street on each side—cars fought to pass. There was a gentle, pleasant hum of voices—like bees might buzz in a hive. We moved through the crowd with comfortable interaction and pleasant eye contact. Men greeted each other with excitement, hugs, or customary hand holding. These were immigrant temporary workers separated from their families for time measured in years, not the weeks I’m separated from my family. Street stands sold phone cards enabling them to call home to their loved ones. I knew Singapore depended heavily upon outside workers but this became real and personal with the experience of being even superficially among them. For me there was a mixture of amazement and excitement—I have never been in such an environment.

We found a local restaurant and had lamb and mutton dishes that were pleasantly spicy along with a yogurt interwoven with cucumber and carrot, greens and delicious bread. Afterward, we walked thru the wet market where many of these men were buying fish, meat or spices for their upcoming week. Women were, if not rare, certainly less than half of a percent of the people seen. Shops were closed with few exceptions due to the Sunday work holiday—so we plan to return during the week.

A Sunday Night visit to Little India

2008-03-23T18:01:00.000-07:00

Duke Tropical Ecology Course--BLOGS

2008-03-23T02:43:00.000-07:00

Blog Addresses for our group—where they are posting their observations:
(they will be added as they are accumulated)

Carly Knoell http://carlyworldtravels.blogspot.com/

Annie Wolf http://anniestrips.blogspot.com/

Day 7--Early morning ramble--McRitchie Reservoir

2008-03-23T02:04:00.000-07:00

A Ragtail Durong sits in silouette, and unidentified brown bird sits in the mist on dripping leaves--just after sunrise and another Durong sits atop a dead tree with unidentified friends, and at the Tree-top Walk a sea eagle flys over in the distance.

A thoughtful monkay watches us pass on the trail after we earlier saw many turtles and occassional monitor lizards checking us out.

Our visit to McRitchie Reservoir and Bukit Timah began with a 5:30am departure from the hotel so we could see dawn there and the intensity and variety of Singaporean use of the park. Our taxi dropped us off among a steady stream of cars/taxis. All around us—in the dark—Singaporeans of a variety of ages came to what seems a favorite spot. It was Easter Sunday and people gathered for a sunrise service--“brisk walkers”, joggers, easy ramblers, people doing individual Tai Chi or Yoga—all were in place before and at dawn. The volume of people grew thru the morning. The setting was beautiful and sunrise illuminated a heavy mist. In fact, all morning, the mist hang in the air.

We walked the edge of the reservoir hoping to see some wildlife while we experienced how the people of Singapore used one of their preserved greenspaces. From these four hours, many people cherish this setting. One Stork-billed kingfisher flew overhead, doves sat in the trees and swallows flew high. A few small birds were seen along with a Racket-tailed Drongo and a sea eagle. One large Snakehead (fish) was near shore and turtles were frequent and several monitor lizards were seen. The songs of birds were varied and everywhere but the mist and early hours limited photos—few came close as well.

We walked the Tree-top walk and then headed to Bukit Timah which is a preserved rainforest site (tho in decline from numerous factors) and the highest spot in Singapore. The walk and climb was challenging for me—we did about 13 kilometers distance. After making it to the top and back down to the city proper ( a total of 4 hours) our group ate a delayed and welcomed breakfast at a Malaysian stall-style restaurant.

Then back to the inn to shower/rest/ blog/ or explore. In the evening, everyone does their own thing—Javanese massage for some of the gals, visit to Little India for Dr. Dan and I, and –well, we will hear what everyone did when we gather for breakfast.

Ecology and Planning--Bollywood Day 6

2008-03-23T02:02:00.000-07:00

Photograhing the Javanese Myna, I happened to also capture the Stork-billed kingfisher in the background. Also, I got a distant shot of the brillant colored oriole--you should see the flash of color as it flies. A unidentified bird feeds on seeds of the tree flower.

Today we began with a stimulating experience of visiting the class of Lai Choo Malone-Lee who teaches students of joint environmental design and community planning. It was amazing to witness how thorough and forward thinking they are and realize they are only part-way along their journey to merge ecological issues and developmental needs as Singapore is beginning to increasingly want. They presented work group proposals for an area known as the Dragon Kilns which is also sitting in a sensitive wildlife corridor.

Then we went to Bollywood which is not only a demonstration garden/agricultural enterprise along with a fantastic bistro, but (as patrons alongside us related) a genuine and cherished oasis from the more concrete city. They felt being surrounded by green flora was a valuable escape. This reminded me of the scientifically proven fact heard earlier this week that “people living in intact habitats are happier and healthier”.

Ivy Singh was our host—giving us a glimpse into her garden and her perspective. Only !% of Singapore is set aside for agriculture and the existing farms and farmers are constantly threatened by the rapid changes. The granite and building materials dump/storage nearby feels like fingers of development reaching forward attempting to clutch this small remaining geographic area. As she related, “ when the last fish is caught and the last tree is cut and the last crop is destroyed—you can’t eat money”///all part of a regional proverb from hundreds of years ago.

Our stop at Sunei Buloh was cancelled due to a monsoon rain lasting a couple of hours. Rains occurring later in the year are a noticed change by several citizens we have met.

I hoped to see more birds to i.d. and photograph—my surprise was to get an accidental pic of a stork-billed kingfisher as I shot a Javanese myna for fun.

Check out-- http://www.bollywoodveggies.com/
Don’t just check out the site, but if you live in Singapore, check out the bistro and farm.

Day 5--Semakau

2008-03-23T01:59:00.000-07:00

Starfish/octopus/sea cucumber and Ria leading the mudflat look-about

Semakau is the island south of Singapore which serves as the landfill site for all the incinerated ashes of the country’s trash comig from several processing sites. Semakau previously was the home of a native village and culture that was displaced by this islands reclamation and new purpose. The result seems to be a successful, clean operation to handle rubbish but also providing a unique habitat for wild birds and preserving/replanting of mangroves, sustaining an extensive area of mud flat/sea grass and coral rubble and coral reef further out. There is also a tropical forest section behind the mangroves—and plenty of mosquitoes. We saw few birds but a wide variety of species—some exotic or uncommon—but this is a desirable birders site. I saw no shorebirds but one heron was seen by someone else. Our timing put us there at dusk and low tide so we could see the variety of coral/starfish/shell-dwellers which I couldn’t name—and much more.

The ride out to Semakau allowed us to see the massive petroleum factories—one 2 or three largest in the word/ shipping docks-second largest in the world and also Singapore’s state bird (according to our birder guide at Ubin--Raj) the crane—in this case along the docks.

We saw starfish, octopus, sea cucumbers, numerous types of coral, an anemone with “nemo” hiding inside, and –well, I wanted to run about to see the nest thing someone else found. We were calling out in joy with our discoveries to show our finds—seventeen of us—there was no minute without a new find and and a new gathering. Later, we learned that there was much to be seen by staying still and quiet and life emerge from hiding.
We were guided by Ron and a contigent of volunteers and especially Ria Tan.

Please visit Ria’s sites:

Her blog post for Semakau is up on the wildfilms bloghttp://wildfilms.blogspot.com/2008/03/pulau-semakau-with-dr-dan-and-friends.html

The photos of our visit are also up on Ria’s flickr accounthttp://www.flickr.com/photos/wildsingapore/

Ria features news on the wildsingapore news bloghttp://wildsingaporenews.blogspot.com/

Ron's blog is at: http://tidechaser.blogspot.com/

Night Adventure at Mandai mangroves

2008-03-23T01:32:00.000-07:00

Stop-over in Changi--Day 4

2008-03-23T01:23:00.000-07:00

Our return trip from Ubin and Chek Jawa brought us back to the area called Changi. Here we stopped for a late lunch before heading back to the Pasir Panjang area. After our meal we saw (in the trees along the sidewalk) a sunbird and a parakeet—looking bigger than I expected for a parakeet based on pets I have seen in the U.S.

A Visit to Pulau Ubin--Day 4

2008-03-22T07:30:00.000-07:00

"Waterworld" as I will call it--(where famililies live full time on the water raising the small nursery fish they sell to fish-farmers for commercial enterprise. A Stork-billed Kingfisher--who eats little if any fish but more amphibians and other prey) and a Brahminy Kite flying overhead.

The village waterfront, its temple and what may be the last remaining community operahouse--of the Asian/not western type.

Pulau Ubin is island home to Singapore’s last village (or “kampong”) and has been given temporary designation as a national park area—a multipurpose spot receiving 300,000 visitors yearly. We saw many elementary and adolescent school kids pass us on the road—they were there for a nature education adventure and these young citizens were in great spirits about their trip. We took a ferry from Changi after meeting our guide---Subaraj Rajathurai and arrived pre-dawn alongside a prawn pond. As daylight neared, Subaraj identified many bird songs and sounds from the growing wake-up and connection calls the feathered friends made.

Among many, we heard the song or saw :Night jar, spotted wood owl, greenshank,brown throated sunbird, kingfishers-collared and multicolored?, magpie robin, common sandpiper, hii myna, stork billed kingfisher, hornbill, brown-throated sunbird, Bramley kite, laced woodpecker, abbots babbler, and twenty or more extra.

It is clear that people cherish this island—and we were here on a weekday—we were told the numbers of visitors is striking as a weekend getaway from city life/ day-to-day.

This certainly parallels our local seashore that includes Diamond City and Portsmouth Island—our last/now abandoned outer banks villages that are now abandoned but whose surroundings serve as multiuse for fishing, viting rambles, exploring, picnics, camping, etc.

Chek Jawa visit

2008-03-21T15:59:00.001-07:00

MudSkipper

Flower---name?

Boardwalk
Mangroves
Black Baza

We visited Chek Jawa at high tide which presented a totally different experience than if low tide had exposed the tidal flats. Chek Jawa is a special collection of habitats in close proximity—coral rubble area, mangroves, coastal forest, tidal flats and rocky coastline section.

I was struck by the similarities to Rachel Carson Estuary which is two blocks from my home in Beaufort. Both areas serve as important flyway destinations for migratory birds while having a resident population as well, both areas have wide diversity of marine and bird life, both Rachel Carson Estuary and Chek Jawa are threatened by surrounding development and the environmental pressures this brings (our Carrot Island has some species of mollusks 50% sterile due to such pressures—but this rate is 80%plus in downtown Morehead City waterfront and almost 100% sterile in reproductive function near the Calico Creek/ high rise connection. This similarly applies to crabs as well.)—I digressed-----these areas in Sg and Beaufort are visited by may citizens yearly and also both Chek Jawa and Rachel Carson Estuarine Reserve serve as education resources for children to adult ages currently. Duke University Marine Lab (Rachel Carson) and National University of Singpore (Chek Jawa/ Mandai mangroves) utilize these areas to perform and publish world recognized research and train future leaders in their fields –partially by utilizing these sites.

Mandai Mangroves at night---crabs that climb trees

2008-03-20T21:18:00.000-07:00

Our group explored Mandai mangroves expecting to have a muddy adventure. We were guided by Dan’s friend and associate (now our friend) who researches this and other areas.

Like Chek Jawa, these mangroves remind me of home—not the mangrove flora or the specific creatures but in the intense volume and variety of life found similarly in Rachel Carson Estuary and our surrouding barrier islands.

After slipping around a bit, we made discovery after discovery –some as we looked across the straights to Jahor. I was happy to be greeted at one point by the familiar bark of the Great Blue Heron as we entered too close to his roost.

Singapore has a rapidly diminshing volume of mangrove habitat. All of South East Asia has this smae problem caused by numerous factors--deforestation, development, erosion, intrusion by man on many fronts--but Singapore may be the worst case example of Asia--with 95% lost. By 2030, this loss will extend to 97% ( which would mean 40-50% loss of what exists today--which is already at crisis levels.

This area of mangrove is important for its diversity (at least seven types of tree climbing crabs) and its ability to be used tomonitor the decline or repair of environmeantal health as a nation tries to remain self-sufficient and healthy while turning attention increasingly to ecological issues as citizen interest in this increases.

Our group explored Mandai mangroves expecting to have a muddy adventure. We were guided by Dan’s friend and associate (now our friend) who researches this and other areas.

Please visit this site to learn more:
http://mangrove.nus.edu.sg/mandai/

Mandai at Nite

2008-03-20T20:59:00.000-07:00

Mating full-grown horseshoe crabs (smaller than our local variety)--we found many others alive and dead trapped in freshly washed -up nets/paralleling their difficulties at home. Their eggs are an important food source for shorebirds and they must avoid hazards of nature and man for 11(yes, eleven) years before they reach maturity to reproduce the next generation----a fact that surprised me.

A narite--a tree snail.

A Dog-faced watersnake--not quite twice the diameter of a pencil--docile and non-posonous (I was told but didn't test).

Mandai Mangrove Night Adventure

2008-03-20T18:31:00.000-07:00

The mangroves are full of life--diverse species and diversity within species--these two bull spiders were over four inches across ----there were many smaller and varied.

Sg-Habitat Loss/ Deforestation/ Conservation Efforts

2008-03-19T01:02:00.000-07:00

Extinct Dodo Bird/ Nite on the town(2 Dodo birds)

Singapore—Day 3

Today we heard from Dan’s colleague Sivasothi on Ecological/Conservation efforts and Navjot Sodhi re: SE Asian extinctions.
My partial summary of Sivasothi’s presentation reflects definition of problem and goal/efforts:
The problem:
--Deforestation from 1819 picture of Singapore with 82% land mass in primary forest and 13% in mangroves to a990 numbers of 0.5% mangroves and 0.2 % primary forest.
--74% of SE Asia is expected to be deforested by 2010.
--of Singapore’s coral reefs 60% are lost and 30% degraded.
--Mangroves in 1990 totaled 2700 hectares/ now 500 ha
--Bukit Timah (forest) is falling apart in front of our eyes—victim of acid rain and loss of species that help re-seed native flora (Bukit Timah has more species of palms than all of Africa) and rare fauna within the area have disappeared
The Goal/Effort:
--Although early efforts were to become self-sufficient, public awareness and government decision-making are bringing better environmental decisions (the preservation of Chek Jawa may have been the turning point)
--early planners had little knowledge of ecology—“I appreciate the developmental pressures but all decisions have not been informed decisions”
--the urban population was blissfully unaware of these issues which are now in their focus
--lack of education efforts about environmental issues has improved and additional effort is needed
--the preoccupation with terrestrial issues has been moderated
--raising public awareness and reaching citizens with education is effective coupled with advocacy thorough providing ministers and decision makers good information and backing away to allow them to make informed decisions.
--Mondai mangroves (important for migratory birds and an abundance of marine life) is now an important area of focus for Singapores decision-making—hopefully to follow in the pattern of Chek Jawas success.

Navjot Sodhi describes hisself as cautiously pessimistic and sees Singapore and many areas of SE Asia as worst case scenarios of deforestation. He lays responsibility at the feet of scientists/academics for “the lack of education of tropical citizens re: environmental issues”.
--2/3 of all biodiversity resides in the tropics
--deforestation in SE Asia is the highest rate and importance in the world. Projections have the only remaining forests in 2050 to reside in protected areas only—all else gone
--destruction is not limited to forests—mangroves (critical for hatcheries, prevention of erosion, tsunami protection and habitat for wide ranging species) in Singapore are 95% lost and expected to be 97% lost by 2030 –due to land reclamation.
--if we lose 95% of ther forest, we lose 50% of the species (some species can adapt)
--drivers of habitat loss include population growth, drive to increase national GNP, logging—legal and illegal,western demand for wood,
--habitat loss—we are the cause/we are the victims

Consequences of loss of habitat/biodiversity include loss of habitat as environmental filters, increased disease spread (linked to bird flu, SARS, Nipah virus, dengue and malaria), increased drought and fires, landslides and loss of life, erosion, decreased pollination, and much more.

Forest bird species are declining/disappearing on a steep slope downward and accelerating—shorebirds migrating from as far as Siberia find disruption along their route—Sg is a major stop—are decling as well.

National University of Singapore is home to the Raffles Museum of Biodiversity.

Singapore Green Plan
http://www.mewr.gov.sg/sgp2012/index_2006.htm

Nature Society response to Green Plan
http://conservationsingapore.nss.org.sg/SGP2012.doc

Deforestation in SE Asia
http://ca.youtube.com/user/WetlandsInt
also see peat lands and climate change
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=tmT7UeJM8eM
Raffles Museum
http://rmbr.nus.edu.sg/news/index.php?phrase=semakau&submit=Search+RMBRnews

"everyone is downstream from somebody else"

2008-03-18T08:06:00.000-07:00

Day 2 included a visit to NeWater where wastewater is recycled to become drinkable water (I drank a bottle and didn"t die). After customary wastewater treatment, the water comes to NeWater where it is super-filtered, goes thru reverse osmosis and then treated with UV light.

The finished product 45 min. later is drinkable water used for industry or added back to reservoirs.

Singapore is without large lakes or rivers--yet citizens consume 300 million gallons of water daily. Currently 4 arms of water management exist: local catchment of rainwater, desalinated water, NewWater, and purchased water. Agressive and successful steps are being taken to become independent of the need to purchase most of the water needed.

On the way to the facility, Ciara pointed out this Collared Kingfisher in the trees above Tanh Merah station. This was my first native/regional--not introduced bird seen.

Day One--March 17th--National Planning

2008-03-18T07:52:00.000-07:00

First Day—We visited the Urban Redevelopemnt Authority (URA) to see the vision of Singapore’s planning. There is a long range goal of creation of further land volume by filling in strategic areas. Previously Sg bought land/ soil from Malaysia and brought it by barge to fill areas on Sg’s coast. After years of settling, it could be used for development. Stone seawalls would be retainers. They hope to increase landmass an additional 20% but now find resistance from other nations to the idea of sacrificing their shoreline and land mass to enable Sg to continue to grow. This may be coming at a good time—that could allow ecological dabate and advocacy to protect the remaining natural shoreline ecosystem which would be otherwise radically altered.

Singapore is a nation of 4 an a half million people in a land mass 0f 244 sq. miles—15 by 25 miles roughly. They want to increase land mass another 20% and hope to increase population to 6 &1/2million to support a work force for economic sustainability. Although their birth rate is an enviable (in on view) 1.8 or so and the average # of children is 1.24 per family, the government encourages and financially rewards having additional children—preferring to have citizens of their own cultural basis instead of immigrant populations. Population growth and density would seem to a visitor to be over-saturated but goals of sustainability in Singapore does not focus directly on environmental impact and loss of natural settings/biodiversity as much as on economic growth. To their credit, Singapore can boast, if they chose, an adult literacy rate of 98% male and 88% female and the country has a net wealth of one and a half million dollars per person. This contrasts strongly with the US where we live with deficits and grow a massive national debt to pass to our children and grandchildren. This financial health, apparent good housing for all or most, health care as good or better than the US, along with strong banking, industry and effectively no unemployment enables the country to act on what long term goals it chooses to set. Since independence in 1965, focus was on the above items and others directed as a first step to give citizens a stable leg up. Now being a leader in the world in many areas, they have the ability to focus more on ecology and improved standards of living. These things we plan to study to see how they make choices and advocate for responsible change.

Photos of planning presentations----then we were off to the food stalls. Every meal has been good--even to a generally inflexible southerner.

First day in Singapore--before the course

2008-03-18T07:39:00.000-07:00

BlogSg2008

In preparation for our trip, Dr. Rittshof shared the thoughts that “We're seeing an interesting phenomenon where caring decreases with loss of touch with nature—“ and “The…… concern is the shifting baseline of realization—(that people accommodate to the state of the environment which they inherit or which they see slowly decay). On my first day in Singapore, Dr. Dan and I shared a table at a food stall with a middle class family, the father of which was knowledgeable about climate change, el nino, la nina and world events but when the two sons were asked where in Singapore was their favorite place to go, they quickly said “home” and when queried, they had never visited Chek Jawa, Sunei Buloh, St. John’s Island and many other nature sites or outdoor recreation areas. It appeared that this family has adapted to life within a narrow range of experience—dad also said besides an uncommon game of golf, his favorite place was also home and he had visited very few sites on this island city-state that is 15 by 25 miles. We explained our course goal of learning how Singapore manages planning and decision-making about ecological issues—he summed up his view very positively with a gentle grin—“we live together” which I took as expressing an attitude, not only geography..

By contrast, others I have met validate the perception that things are beginning to change—those interested in the environment advocate more often and more effectively, many levels of government solicit citizen input and increasingly want to be seen acting responsibly for citizens and natural resources, and joint success has occurred.

As for the status of shorebirds, one expert said simply “there are no shores”—their habitat substantially gone—another added that many of the remaining shorebirds have moved to reside on the waste disposal sites (though sophisticated “rubbish” heaps) such as Semaku Island. The intense dredging and land reclamation ( extensive enough to add the equivalent of 16,000 football fields to the island country has changed bird, mollusk and invertebrate habitat. A lighthouse now sits far inland and a WWII beachfront bunker now sits out of place amidst a housing neighborhood with no visible water or beach.

Thus far I have seen no shore or shorebirds since arrival. Mynas, sparrows, rare pigeon and cattle egrets have been seen and cowbirds have been heard with their distinctive call—all introduced species/ none native.

Singapore Bird census (2007):
146 species=40%decrease from187 last year (205 in 2005)—100 resident and 46 migratory this year—explanation uncertain
1/3 of original avifauna now extinct
56 species listed as at risk
12 globally at risk out of 364 species recorded in Singapore
(source WildBirdSingapore –see website)

Internet Sites--Singapore Birds/Reefs

2008-03-05T17:56:00.000-08:00

http://www.birdlife.org/worldwide/index.html

http://besgroup.talfrynature.com/

http://www.nss.org.sg/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wildbirdSingapore/

http://iyor08singapore.blogspot.com/2008/03/marine-debris-101-new-site-with-lots-of.html

http://www.naturia.per.sg/buloh/birds/birds.htm

Pediatrician, Waterbird Carver and General Tag-along

2008-03-03T18:51:00.000-08:00

I was invited by Dan Rittschof to accompany/be a participant in this course studying Urban Tropical Ecology. Sounding like a great adventure, I gladly accepted. Little did I realize at the time how the serendipity of events would interconnect my long-standing (since my second grade teacher told me the sun would burn out in 5 million years) interest in the environment, my relatively new hobby of waterbird carving, my photography of waterbirds by kayak at Rachel Carson Estuary and the emerging interest of pediatricians to speak out on environmental issues that affect the children in their care even more vigorously. I am excited about and open to new horizons.

Why will bird photos likely crop up often on the page? Not a surprise due to my hobby, but also,

Like the canary carried into the coal mines, it may be that shorebird/wading birds/ migratory birds can serve as a barometer of environmental health--their decline may warn us/ their rejuvenation may tell us we are choosing rightly---the loss of their song may be the warning, just as in the mines, that the environment is at severe peril.

Sojourn in Singapore: Urban Tropical Ecology

2008-03-03T18:35:00.000-08:00

"Singapore is a fascinating combination of human and institutional ecology, tropical diversity, disturbed habitats, invasive species and built environments. Within the boundaries of the cit/state/island of Singapore(54 square miles), one can go from patches of primary rain forest to housing estates for its 4,000,000 plus residents......

It is within this biological and social context that this experiential field oriented seminar will be conducted. Students will experience how this city/state functions, and how it has worked to maintain and enhance the quality of life of its citizens while intentionally and unintentionally radically modifying its environment....

The general hypothesis is that people's history and culture determines their political economy, all of which plays out in their relationship to the built and natural environments."

Dan Rittschof